
Prelude
2 days before the race
Our team went out for a practice run on the Macal river. After a couple of hours of canoeing we got back onto shore in our green plastic canoe and met a Belizean who was worried about us taking this boat in the race.
We questioned his concern and he told us that he used to take people out in canoe tours and that he’s used this type of canoe and it is very slow and hard to use. He told us that it’s not good for long distances, but if we used one of the other canoes we’d fare better.
Since the other canoes he recommended were being rented from Tony (The same guy that was renting us the one we’d been practicing in) we figured maybe we should listen to this guy. We took one for a test run and sure enough it ran smoother and faster. Unfortunately we had already put all of our sponsor logos on our current canoe.
The Belizean guy had a solution for that too. He recommended a rasta artist who could paint the logos onto our boat before the race and lived right near the bridge where we were keeping our boat. Excellent. In a few moments of pondering our options we decided to switch boats, and got the Rasta painter named Sebastian to get to work painting our boat.
1 Day before the race
We get a call from Michael (Head of our support team) who is in Spanish lookout and has found an even faster sleaker traditional dugout dory canoe. It seems this boat is for sale and he’s been negotiating with them to buy. He asks us if we want it, and we question about getting the logos redone a third time. Michael says “no problem, I’ll take it down to Sebastian immediately to get painted before the race”. Without Arlene (our other team member) around to make the decision, Elly and I decide to go for it.
This means we will now be in a new racing division. The Dory division. In the evening, we do our orientation for the race, listening to the rules, and how to deal with dangerous situations on the river etc… We get our stickers with our team number on it for the canoe and we inform registration of our switching divisions. Afterwards is a big party in the center of San Ignacio to celebrate the night before the La Ruta Maya race begins. Bands play music, people dance, and vendors sell food. We had some good fun, but went to bed early to get well rested for the morning.
Day 1 San Ignacio to Banana Bank (The Beginning)
We get down there in good time with all of the gear we’d backed for the trip. We each have a bag to strap into the boat, foam to cushion our seats, and bailers to get water out of the boat.
Michael and I check in with Sebastian who has finished painting our logos on the boat, and we carry the boat to the crowded riverbank. We quickly use string and duct-tape to get all of our stuff secured and tied in to the boat before launching.
It’s almost time for the race to start, and we still need to paddle upstream to the starting line. We get in the boat, launch into the waters and that’s when we realize the instability of this sleek dory dugout. Balance is immediately a concern as the boat starts to rock back and forth. Everyone in the the team needs to be in sync to balance this boat, but it just ain’t happening. This is the first time we’re trying out this new craft, and as we tip from side to side and start taking on water, we realize that we’ll never make it anywhere in this boat.

Half submerged, we manage to turn ourselves around and get back to shore just as the canoe sinks. The crowd was laughing and cheering, and so were we. Our support crew leader Michael jumps into action to get our backup canoe.
We start untying our gear and retrieving our bailers and foam cushions. Then to the rescue comes our Belizean friend from the previous day who had recommended the other canoe. He paddles across the river to where we are, and presents us the boat! Hurray! we have a stable canoe that has all our sponsor logos on it.


We hurry to get our gear tied down and paddle up towards the starting line. Then we realize that our official team number stickers are on the other canoe, AND we have now switched back to the Pleasure Craft division from the Dory division. So we pull to shore close to the starting line on the opposite side of the river and I jump out of the boat and eagerly search the crowds for one of the official race volunteers. I find the Timekeeper with 5 minutes to spare before start time and tell him our story quickly. He gives me the okay to continue without stickers and says we’ll sort it out in the evening.
I jump back in the boat and we head up to the starting line, staying a bit to the back of the line in order to avoid the rush of the serious paddlers.
Our strategy is to be the last ones paddling under the bridges where people are all eagerly watching the race. So when the fog horn calls the race to begin, we just drift along with a few other pleasure crafts and then let everyone by before paddling through the cheering crowds of spectators on either sides of the bank and on the bridge.


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We continue paddling for a long time and then we run out of water. We’re nearing the bridge to Spanish lookout, where we call Michael to bring us water and the energy balls we left in the freezer. We arrived faster than expected to the bridge and so had to pull over to the bank and wait for him to show up with supplies. In the meantime, the other canoes we had passed along the way all go by and the safety boat which follows the last canoe pulls up and asks if we’re giving up. We tell them no, and explain our situation.
Just as they start telling us the rules, that one person must remain in the boat at all times, Michael pulls in, screaching to a halt and jumps out of the Land Cruiser with jugs of water and an armful of energy balls. We quickly relaunch the boat and start heading down the river again.
The sun is blazing hot, and luckily Elly and I had a dip in the river while we were waiting so our clothes are soaked and keeping us cool. Arlene isn’t doing so well, and starts to refuse to eat energy balls and isn’t drinking much water either. She claims that she doesn’t like the electrolyte drink Elly gave her.
We keep going, but the safety boat comes to check on us, and after questioning Arlene a few times, who is complaining about aches and pains all over, they decide she needs medical attention and remove her from the canoe.
Elly and I are now on our own, heading out to paddle the last few miles in to Banana Bank. After a long haul of paddling, we make it in last place. When we pull in, the Japanese support team help us pull our canoe on the shore and we find Arlene in the medical van, hooked up to an IV because of dehydration. Our support team isn’t there yet because as it turned out they took the wrong road to Banana Bank. Mark, our photographer shows up first and lends some money for beers. Elly and I go get our food, and wait for the others.
When the others finally arrive (Matt in the Motorhome, and Michael in the Landcruiser). Elly and I cruise off with Michael to go get massages in San Ignacio and sleep at home for the night.
Day 2 Banana Bank to Bermudian Landing
Early up in the morning, and snoozing in the vehicle as Michael drives us to Banana Bank. It was nice to be able to sleep in our own beds the night, and the massages we received from Ana the Masseuse were wonderful. I felt as though I hadn’t even paddled the previous day.
When We arrived at Banana Bank, we went and got our breakfast and ate it in the motorhome with Arlene. She was not doing too well. She had caught a throat cold and was coughing quite a bit. Each day our team must start together in the canoe or else we get disqualified, and there is no chance of substituting another paddler either. Arlene wasn’t in any state to paddle, but she was going to start the day with us and then get picked up by the Safety boat ASAP.
We got our gear together and went to launch our canoe. Once launched, we paddled to the back of the line to wait for the starting horn. The countdown starts 3, 2, 1 and the canoes start going, but the horn never blew. “Get Back HERE!” shouts Tony the Timekeeper. “Get Back Here Now!! Listen for the Horn!!!”. The canoes stop and start paddling backwards as they realize it was a false start. We didn’t have to move, since we were so patient to begin with.
With everyone back in line, the horn blows and the race begins. We start paddling slowly at the back with the other slower paddlers and after 20 minutes or so, we flag down the safety boat to unload Arlene. They recognize quickly what our intentions are and waste no time picking her up and letting us get back to paddling.
This was the longest day of the race. A 64 mile long stretch which includes going over a waterfall at one point. We just kept pushing on, paddling in trance as one part of the river begins to look like any other and we have no way to judge how much farther to go except what the safety boats tell us as they come by to check on us from time to time. We soon realize that the safety boats have no idea where they are either, as every one tells a different story of how far we’ve gone and how far we have left to go.
At one point we must’ve been lagging far behind the rest, because the army boat picked us up and gave a tow, telling us we’d never make it at the turtle pace we were moving at. They towed us for a while and then let us loose.
We were now paddling through Howler Monkey territory. The Baboon Sanctuary was around us and we saw families of howler monkeys on either side of the river. They were sitting in trees watching us go by, and at some points they would be howling back and forth across the river to each other and from tree to tree. It was a symphony of howler monkeys. This was truly one of the most magical experiences.
We continued on in our paddling trance and then saw the army boat on the river. They came by to let us know that we were coming up to the falls and to keep to the right. They also mentioned that 7 canoes had already flipped going through, so we best be careful.
Where-ever there are dangerous rapids along La Ruta Maya course, there are always volunteers there with flags to guide you through the safest part of the rapids. We followed the instructions and went straight on over the first waterfall.
It was only about a 2-3 foot drop that went kind of gradual as the water force created and angle to float over it with. Water thrashed against the sides of the canoe and splashed over the edges as we plowed through the rapids over the fall and into a thick mess of waves. The next part we had to keep to the right and a we cruized over a lesser fall with ease. Only a bit of water got in the boat, which I quickly bailed out when we got back into the calm waters again. Gee, that was easy, but we both laughed at the idea of taking the dory dugout through there. We would’ve been sunk for sure in that thing.
After the falls we made it in a couple hours later and even put on the steam at the end to pass one of the Japanese teams so we wouldn’t be last again. WooHoo!! Second day completed, the hardest part behind us.
Our support team was ready and waiting for us this time. We got into some clean clothes had our dinners and I went and setup my tent. Parties were going on all around the area, but we were so tired and sore that we just finished eating, and went to bed. I rubbed tiger balm all over myself and did some yoga and self massage before sleep. A bar right next to my tent was blasting music late into the night, but it didn’t seem to bother me in my tired state.
Day 3 Bermudian Landing to Burrell Boom
Up early morning to pack up my tent, then go check out the motorhome and the rest of my team. They were just getting up when I knocked on the door, so I went off to collect our breakfasts and return to feast.
It appeared that Arlene was still not feeling very well, so Elly and I would have another day of just the two of us paddling. Today it would only be 36 miles, so we weren’t too concerned, although we didn’t get massages from Ana the previous night, so our muscles were a little worse for wear. However, Ana was going to be waiting for us in Burrell Boom when we got in, so we had something to look forward to.
When the race started this time, all went well. The safety boat insisted that Arlene must paddle out to the first safety checkpoint 2 miles in before we could drop her off this time. It turned out to be more like 4-5 miles, but Arlene managed it quite well. She also got to paddle through some areas with howler monkey’s in the trees howling. It started raining when we set off and we were all drenched.
After dropping her off, we pushed on hard. We got into our paddling trance and kept going and going. We were neck in neck with another canoe for awhile that also only had 2 people due to one of them getting a sore back. We seemed to be able to keep a lead on them most of the time, but they’d always pass us when we pulled over to the bank for pee breaks, or just decided to have a break to eat fruit and energy balls.
The sun came out only once for maybe 20 minutes, and the rest of the time was drizzling, sprinkling, pouring, and whatever. It was wet. Nearing the end of the day the army boat came by with our competitors being towed. We were starting to get a bit cold from the wind, and yet the water of the river felt soooo warm. They towed us for a bit and then handed us off to another safety boat which gave me a space blanket to wear. They only towed us a little way since we were so near the end anyways, but it was much appreciated. We paddled in the last little way and were happy to get in where our support team was waiting for us.
When we got out Michael, Matt, and Arlene guided us to some fresh dry clean clothes and a hot shower at Ana’s hotel room, followed up by a 30 minute massage each. It was fabulous.
We then ate our dinners and went to watch part of a video festival on kayaking and canoeing. We also had a couple shots of tequila to celebrate. The videos were good, but I was getting tired, so I went off to do some yoga and then sleep.
Day 4 Burrell Boom to Belize City
The final day of only 25 miles. At this point I feel very confident that I will finish the race. I’m just hoping that it won’t rain today. Arlene was talking about finishing this last run with us last night, but this morning she says she doesn’t think she can do it. She had been up all night before coughing.
The teams line up to launch their boats, as there is only one launch spot due to a steep bank. We get our boat in the water and start paddling to the back of the line as per usual. Although we had our nice massages the previous night, Elly and I have very sore muscles. The overexertion from the past 3 days has taken its toll on us.
The fog horn starts the race, and we begin at a slow pace. As we go, our muscles start to tighten and warm up a little and it becomes a bit easier. Once Arlene is going she decides that she does want to finish the race today, and when the army boat asks if we’re okay, she tells them we’re just fine. Elly and I wonder whether this is a good thing or a bad thing.
As we push on, Arlene proves herself to us. Her arms aren’t as sore as ours and once we get into a rhythm of paddling, she shows her strengths.
We managed to pass another canoe (the same one we’d been neck in neck with the previous day, and they have their third person today too). We maintained a lead on them and the army boat cheered us on as we passed them.
At one point the waves from the sea were coming towards us providing a challenge of having to push harder to make headway. We pushed on and when we could see the sea ahead of us, we were guided down a side channel through a canal of mangrove trees. The mangroves were sooooo beautiful, and the waters looked like a good place for crocodiles to hang out.

The mangrove canal seemed to go quite a ways, and we passed some sunken boats and some kids floating around in old freezers. The end must be near. It felt very close, and eventually we came out of the mangroves into the city. Houses were on either side with people cheering us on as we paddled. “You’re almost there, keep going!” they shouted.
Our arms, shoulders, necks, and backs were weak, tired, and sore, but we were now sprinting with the finish line in mind. When we finally saw the bridge that marks the finish, we were very relieved, and pushed even harder with the last of our energy. Many people were still there waiting for us, and cheering as we came in!!!

Hurray!! We finished!!!

We docked our canoe, and left it for our support team to deal with as we wandered over to receive our metals of participation (Of course we came in second to last, so we weren’t expecting any prizes). The wooden metals were reward enough, showing that we’d completed La Ruta Maya Belize River Challenge.

~Jambhala